Kyajo Ri Peak Climbing

Kyajo Ri Peak Climbing (6186) - 22 Days

Group size: 2-12 people Max-Altitude: 6186
Duration: 22 Days Trip grade: Extreme

Kyajo Ri, 6186m, is a full-scale expedition climbing peak. It is significantly harder physically and technically than popular trekking peaks like Island Peak or Lobuje East, both of which are a simple one-day ascent to the summit.

Kyajo Ri is the highest summit on the southern part of the Khumbu Himal ridge that runs north of Namche Bazaar. The Government of Nepal only opened Kyajo Ri peak for trekking in 2002. Until now, this amazing peak has attracted little attention, and still has the feel of an unexplored peak as the route is free of fixed rope and anchors.

The trek into base camp is a pleasure in itself while at the same time providing the necessary acclimatization for the climb. The Kyajo Ri expedition starts with a flight to Lukla. It follows the main “Everest Base Camp Route” as far as Namche Baazar. The trek to base camp is not overly difficult for fit and experienced trekkers, perhaps a bit harder than the Kala Patar trek near Everest Base Camp.

From Namche we leave the main route and head up the Gokyo Valley to the Renjo La, 5388m, a high pass from where we enter the Thame valley. We descend into the valley to Mende, where we leave the main trail and enter the remote valley of Kyajo Drangka, where we set up our Base Camp south of Kyajo Ri.

Kyajo Ri is a difficult expedition with significant technical climbing at high altitude. The typical approach via the SW Ridge requires two more camps above Base Camp. Climbers on this expedition need to be in excellent physical condition and should have basic mountaineering skills. Summit day is very long and tiring.

Kyajo Ri Climb Overview

Base Camp 4500m to Camp I, 5300m: It is reached by crossing rough moraine.

Camp I to Camp II, 5700m: It is not so far but it is strenuous as the glacial terrain is rough with tallus and giant boulders. Camp II is on a snowy col.

Camp II to Summit: Above Camp II there is a belayed climbing using fixed rope on snow slopes of 50° to 55° up to the exposed and pointed summit. We will belay, lower and rappel the same route on descent. Summit day is comparable to summit day on Ama Dablam.


Note:

Kathmandu – Lukla – Kathmandu flight may be delayed by few hours or even cancelled due to bad weather condition. You should be prepared for such flight delays or cancellations. We will do our best to avoid such conditions.

In case of flight cancellation, we will try to get you on the flight for the next day. Getting early flight for the next day may be not possible during the high season. We can arrange flight by helicopter as well with extra cost. If we have a group of 4- 5 people, we can charter helicopter for you to fly from Kathmandu – Lukla or vice versa.

It will be advisable to have extra days in Kathmandu before and after the trekking. We can arrange you cultural / adventure tours (such as sightseeing tours, rafting, jungle safari,) with extra cost if the extra days are not used for the flight conditions to Lukla and back.

If the flight is delayed and cancelled for several days which could disturb your onward journey, you are free to choose trekking in Annapurna, Langtang and other regions and Ang Rita Trek & Expedition will arrange the alternative trek for you as soon as possible.

Day 01

Arrival in Kathmandu

Upon your arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, you will be warmly greeted by representative as you come out at the airport after the immigration formalities. You will be transferred to a hotel. A briefing of the trekking trip will be arranged at a convenient time.

Day 02

Kathmandu - Lukla - Phakding (2,652m/8,700ft): 3 - 4 hrs.

After breakfast, you will be transferred to the domestic terminal of Kathmandu airport for an early morning flight to Lukla (2,800m/9,186ft), a gateway for Everest. After an adventurous 35 minute flight with spectacular views of breathtaking Himalalays, we land at Tenzing-Hillary Airport at Lukla. Upon arrival at Lukla, the trekking guide will arrange the loads for the porters to carry and commence the trek. We take easy walk to Phakding for three hours and spend the night there to help acclimatize. You can make a small side trips in Phakding if you are not so tired and the time permits.

Day 03

Phakding - Namche Bazaar (3440 m): 5 - 6 hrs

We walk through beautiful pine forest passing Dhudhkosi River crossing several suspension bridges. We Walk through the busy trail and view the tantalizing glimpses of Kusum Kangru (6,369 m), Everest (8,848 m.) and Nuptse (7,879 m ). Arrive at Namche Bazar (3,440 m ). a gateway to Mt. Everest and main trading centre of this region. Tibetans cross the nearby boarder and trade their goods, mainly handicrafts in the local market. The views of Kangtega and Thamserku is superb from Namche.

Day 04

Acclimatization Day at Namche Bazaar

A pleasant day can be spent exploring the village, talking to the Sherpas and marveling at the incredible scenery. You can make a side trip to Thame, another Sherpa town north – west of Namche for acclimatization. Another option could be a day hike to Khumjung and Everest View Hotel for a good view of Everest. Lhotse, Nuptse, Amadablam, Kangtega, Thamserku, Tawoche and other high Himalayas.

Day 05

Namche Bazzar to Phortse Thanga (3,500m) - 5 - 6 hrs walk.

We further follow Khumbu Valley, the main Everest trekking trail until we arrive at Sanasa. This path traverses the hillside to a prominent Stupa on the Mong La that offers superb views of Ama Dablam. We descend steeply in places into rhododendron forests and arrive at Phortse Thanga.

Day 06

Phortse Thanga – Machhermo ( 4410m. ); 5 – 6 hrs.

The trail climbs steeply out of valley through rhododendron forest and juniper and large conifers appear as the elevation increases making the trekking beautiful in Spring. The trail passes through kharkas and summer settlements to Dole (4,200m). The views of Khumbi La and Tawache are magnificent throughout the day. We make steep climbs in most of the places and through kharkas where there are flat spots to reach Machhermo (4,410m).

Day 07

Machhermo – Gokyo ( 4750m. ); 5 – 6 hrs.

The trail climbs a ridge for an excellent view both down the valley to Kengtega and up towards Cho Oyu and descend to a river and again climbs steep to the terminal moraine of the Ngozumpa glacier. A few lakes appear on the trail and finally reaches to Gokyo (4,750m) which is a collection of stone houses and walled pastures on the shores of large lake. The mountain views in the Gokyo region are spectacular.

Day 08

Gokyo – Gokyo Ri ( 5483m. ) – Gokyo ( 4750m. ); 5 hrs.

Early in the morning we steeply climb up for 3 to 4 hours and reach the top of to Gokyo Ri, the best view point in Everest region. The views of the sun rays gradually shedding light on Everest and the breathtaking panorama of the Himalalays including Kusum Kanguru, Thamserku, K 43, Kangtega, Taboche, Cholatse, Makalu, Lhotse, Nuptse, Changtse, and Pumori prove the best vantage point in Khumbu region. We descend to Gokyo.

Day 09

Gokyo – Renjo La ( 5,340m. ) – Lungden ( 4060m. ): 7 – 8 hrs.

Today is the day we cross another high pass. We leave the main trail from Gokyo and move ahead to north – west following glaciers and moraine. As we arrive at Renjo pass the views of the great Himalayas (Everest, Lhotse, Cholatse, Taboche ) give warm welcome. The trail winds down through a stone staircase and then scramble over loose scree and pass Renjo Lake. We further descend and arrive at Lungden.

Day 10

Lungden – Thame ( 3820m. ); 4 – 5 hrs.

We follow the traditional trading route used by Tibetan traders for centuries. We gradually descend following the bank of Bhotekoshi River and arrive at Marlung. We cross the river and slowly descend passing yak pasture lands, stone walled fields and small settlements and arrive at Thame, a well known Sherpa village of famous climbers.

Day 11

Thame – Mende ( 3740m. ); 3 – 4 hours

We hike on an easy trail and descend to Bhotekoshi River, cross it and gradually climb up to Samde village. We again descend and leave the main trail and gradually climb up to Mende.

Day 12

Mende – Base Camp ( 4550m. ); 4 – 5 hrs.

We leave the main trail and follow Yak herder’s trail that crosses a couple of cols to eventually arrive at base camp, a flat meadow for yak grazing during the summer.

Day 13

Rest at the base camp.

We will spend the day making necessary preparation for the expedition or we can explore around.

Day 14:

Base Camp – Camp I ( 5350m. ); 4 – 5 hrs.

We hike over a grassy spur and boulders and some upward rocky sections to arrive at a rough ground to set up camp I at 5350m. From here we can see the route of the climbing of the mountain all the way to the summit.

Day 15

Camp I – Camp II ( 5700m. ); 5 – 6 hrs.

The climbing from camp I to Camp II requires some technical climbing on scree and rock boulders, glaciers and snow slopes. The camp II will be set up at the col.

Day 16

Camp II – Summit ( 6186m. ) – Camp I ( 5350m. ); 10 – 11 hrs.

Today we start early in the morning around 3:00am. We climb up gradually steepening snow slopes and then a rock band to the main snow crest. We further climb 55 – 60 degrees snow and ice slopes that lead to a pointy summit that offers the awesome views of Khumbu region. We make several abseils back down to the col. the Camp II to spend the night.

Day 17

Spare Day for Summit.

Day 18

Camp II – Base Camp ( 4550m. )

We retrace to base camp and enjoy our celebration meal.

Day 19

Base Camp – Namche ( 3440m. ): 5 – 6 hours

We gradually descend to arrive Mende and further descend to Namche.

Day 20

Namche Bazaar-Lukla (2,800m): 6 - 8 hrs

The trail descends steeply downward. We walk slowly through rocky terrain. We cross suspension bridges over Dhudh Koshi River for server times pass through rhododendron and pine forest, Sherpa villages and arrive at Lukla.

Day 21

Lukla – Kathmandu

We fly back to Kathmandu. You can rest and relax throughout the day at the hotel after a long mountain journey. We take you for a farewell dinner at one of the finest typical Nepali restaurant with traditional Nepali culture program.

Day 22

Airport transfer for your onward journeys.

We will transfer you to the airport for your international departure.

  • Foods in Kathmandu.
  • Your warm clothes for trekking/climbing.
  • Tips for your trip staff.
  • Personal high rescue medical insurance.
  • Helicopter evacuation if needed at the time of emergency.
  • Beverages such as coke, beer, mineral water, bar bills.
  • International Ticket
  • Airport pickup and drop off
  • English speaking  trained and experienced trekking guide, climbing guide and assistant guides
  • 3 star hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with breakfast
  • Domestic flights (Kathmandu – Lukla – Kathmandu)
  • Tea house accommodation during the trek
  • All meals (Breakfast, Lunch and dinner) during the trek and climb
  • Tented accommodation during the climb
  • Assistant Guide and Porter
  • National Park / Conservation Area entry permit such as tents and mattresses, cooking equipment, camp site charges, insurance and equipment for the staffs
  • Porter service (2 trekkers 1 porter)
  • Coordination of quick rescue service

 

CLIMBING GEARS
Rope, harness, ice-axe, carabiners, crampons, F8: Jumar, helmet, ice bar, ice screw, sleeping bag and climbing boots.

PERMIT

  • National Park entry permits.
  • Climbing permit.
  • All government and local taxes.

 

BEST TIME TO CLIMB
Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) are the best months for this trip. Although Island Peak can be climbed during winter, the cold temperature might not be suitable for everyone.

This trip will take you high into the Himalayas and into the heartland of the Everest region with a chance to visit the Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar. You will have the opportunity to get up close not only with the snow-clad mountains and rugged terrain of the Khumbu region of Nepal, but also with the lifestyle and culture of the Sherpa people, whose name rings synonymous with the Himalayas itself. In order for you to maximize your opportunity and get the best out of this trip, it is only pertinent that you become familiar with the timing of your trip.

Trip Highlights

  • It is a beautiful mountain, with a sharp, defined summit
  • Significant technical climbing with few objective risks
  • Mid-Khumbu location gives incredible views of surrounding summits including 8000-meter peaks
  • Rarely climbed peak
  • Less expensive permit than similar peaks classified as ‘climbing.
  • It has a beautiful, comfortable and quiet base camp, located in a wonderful isolated valley.

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