Nirekha Peak Climbing

Nirekha Peak Climbing (6,169m) - 25 Days

Group size: 2-12 people Max-Altitude: 6,169m
Duration: 25 Days Trip grade: Extreme

Nirekha peak a great summit in the border Himalayan range based on Khumbu region. This peak relatively located on the chain of Lobuche peak and just east of Cho-la Col which is just few hundred meters above the Cho-la pass. This peak is newly opened Himalayan peak of Nepal and listed on categories of grade ‘A’ among the trekking peaks in Nepal by Nepal mountaineering Association. Only experienced climbers should attempt the summit of Nirekha which requires some technical skills of mountain climbing.

The summit consists of two summit pyramids as north summit and south summit. North summit is easier but requires to cross a difficult crevasse as south summit requires hard part of one pitch in steep climb on 50° Ice but it is unclear that which summit is higher. The climb itself is relatively straight forward, though it does require technical ice-axe, crampons and some fixed rope sections. It is a very physically possible climb for anyone in good shape and with a desire for high adventure.

Nirekha peak has two routes to climb as one from Kanchung base camp and another from Lake base camp. The ascent from the Kanchung side is to be preferred on this itinerary since it is easier and shorter. The glacier to the Cho La Col on the Kanchung side is easy with only a few mostly harmless crevasses. The ascent is mostly in ice and snow, and is comparable to big alpine routes such as the Monch or Bernina. Despite of the relatively small height difference, it demands an excellent condition and acclimatization. This is quite technical but from the top it is one of the best scenery of the Himalayan world. From the top you’ll have an opportunity to see the best view of many high mountains as Mt. Everest, Mt. Lhotse, Mt. Nuptse, Mt. Cho yu and other surrounding Himalayan ranges.


Note:

Kathmandu – Lukla – Kathmandu flight may be delayed by few hours or even cancelled due to bad weather condition. You should be prepared for such flight delays or cancellations. We will do our best to avoid such conditions.

In case of flight cancellation, we will try to get you on the flight for the next day. Getting early flight for the next day may be not possible during the high season. We can arrange flight by helicopter as well with extra cost. If we have a group of 4- 5 people, we can charter helicopter for you to fly from Kathmandu – Lukla or vice versa.

It will be advisable to have extra days in Kathmandu before and after the trekking. We can arrange you cultural / adventure tours (such as sightseeing tours, rafting, jungle safari,) with extra cost if the extra days are not used for the flight conditions to Lukla and back.

If the flight is delayed and cancelled for several days which could disturb your onward journey, you are free to choose trekking in Annapurna, Langtang and other regions and Ang Rita Trek & Expedition will arrange the alternative trek for you as soon as possible.

Day 01

Arrive at Tribhuwan International Airport (TIA) Kathmandu (1300m).

Upon your arrival, you will be greeted by a representative. After completing your custom formalities (Visa, etc) pick up your luggage and look for our representative with a Mountain Guide Treks and Expedition with Group leader’s name display board at the arrival gate. You will be then transferred to Hotel.

Day 02

Kathmandu: Sightseeing and Trek Preparation.

Normally, you need to be trained for rock climbing a day course before start your trek, so you will be taken to a natural rock climbing spot Balaju which is 3 Km drive from Thamel. We will offer excellent opportunities to learn how to use climbing equipments like; rope, harness, Ice axe, crampons although maintain your physically fitness. Alternatively we will start half day sightseeing tour with our professional tour guide to the several of most historical and spiritual Place in Kathmandu.

Some of this place is considered the World Heritage historic Sites such as Durbar Square, the sacred Hindu temple of Pashupati Nath, the famous ‘Monkey Temple’ (Swayambunath) and Buddhists shrine (Buddha Nath) which is one of the largest Stupas in the world. After come back from the tour there will be a pre-trip discussion with our trek guide and other team members. Mountain Guide Trek will brief you regarding your trek as well as we may have an opportunity to discuss about any difficulties regarding our upcoming adventure. Rest of the time you could use for travelling around the Thamel and shopping of needed equipments and other necessaries. (Overnight at deluxe hotel on BB basis)

Day 03

Fly Kathmandu to Lukla and Trek to Phakding (2610m) 3-4 hrs.

Early morning transfer to airport for Lukla flight. The flight into Lukla is a lifetime experience in itself. The airfield is at high evaluation and the difference between the two ends of the runway is about 60 meters! Trek to Phakding with green landscape & view of Kusum Kangraru. (Overnight at tea house on full board basis)

Day 04

Trek Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3440m) 5-6 hrs.

We follow the Dudh Kosi, ascending through Himalayan pine and Doedar cedar forests, to the celebrated village of Namche Bazaar. The village of Namche is a historic trading post where Nepalese and Tibetan traders exchange salt, dried meat and textiles. Besides being a superb place to shop for traditional crafts, Namche remains the central trading post in the Khumbu, attracting Himalayan and lowland merchants. You will spend two days in Namche for acclimatization, visit local markets and spend time with your team. On the hike we capture our first glimpses of Everest and neighboring peaks. (Overnight at tea house on full board basis)

Day 05

Acclimatization Namche to Khumjung Hiking and return back to Namche Bazaar.

This day is reserved for acclimatization and a very slow descent into thin air. After breakfast you will start the ascent towards Khumjung. The trail ascends above Namche Bazar and passes through Syangboche (3720m) this is where the local airport is located. From a hill top above the airport, you will get your first views of Taboche Peak (6 367m), Lhotse (8 414m), Peak- 38 and Ama Dablam (6856m). On arrival at Khumjung (3 780m), you could visit the Hillary School before stopping for lunch at one of the tea houses the walk takes about 3 hours. After lunch you will continue ascending the foot path to Khunde (3 840m), here you could visit the local hospital before the 2 hour ascent back to Namche Bazar. This day is physically demanding at times and you should be prepared as the weather is very unpredictable. Namche Bazaar is known as the gateway of the Everest Region, visit the local museum where you can see the traditional custom of the Sherpa peoples. You will spend a second night in Namche. (Overnight at tea house on full board basis)

Day 06

Trek Namche Bazaar to Dole (4090m) 5-6 hrs.

After stroll around the Namche area, today we refreshed and fairly easy to walk further on. Our walk follows on the gradual trail with few short up and downs overlooking magnificent view of the great giant snow peaks from Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku and Kwangde peak after a pleasant walk of two hours to a small place at Shanasa, from here and trek ascents the left side to Mongla hill and continue down to Phortse Thanga for the overnight stay. We serve our lunch at here. Enjoy the walking and further few hours walk ascending will reach at Dole. (Overnight at tea house on full board basis)

Day 07

Trek Dole to Machhermo (4410m) 5-6 hrs.

Trek from Dole to Machhermo you will climb gradually along the side of the valley, where the small and thorny bushes give way to scrub juniper as the altitude increases. The trail passes many summer settlements, which are used when yaks are taken to these pastures to graze in the summer months. Ahead of you are excellent views of Cho Oyu (8201m) while back down the valley are the peaks of Kantega (6783m) and Thamserku (6623m). You are walking through Lhabarma (4330m), Luza (4340m) and finally reach at Machhermo (4410m). (Overnight at tea house on full board basis)

Day 08

Trek Machhermo to Gokyo (4750m) 4-5 hrs.

Trek from Machhermo to Gokyo the trail climbs a ridge for an excellent view both down valley to Kangtega and up towards to Cho-Oyu (8201m). Beyond the ridge, the valley widens as the trail passes through Pangka at 4390m then descends to the river bank before beginning the climb onto the terminal moraine of the Ngozumpa glacier. It is a steep climb up the moraine, switch backing alongside the stream to the first small lake Longponga (4650m) where a family of Brahmin ducks has resided for many years. After first lake the trail now becomes almost level as it follows the valley past a second lake known as Taujung (4710m) and continue trek to Gokyo Lake (4750m). (Overnight at tea house on full board basis)

Day 09

Acclimatisation day in Gokyo and hike to Gokyo- Ri (5357m) 3-4 hrs.

Today, a rest day and free from packing after breakfast a hike to Gokyo Ri (5357m) is one of the highlight of the trip, the view around Gokyo valley itself is amazing, for the very best panorama. The climb is quite step first 30 minutes, approx two hours to reach the top with its traditional flags. From there you will have a magnificent view of highest peaks, from the west and east are Offers breathe taking views providing a panorama of Cho Oyo (8153m), Gyachung Kang (7922m), Everest 8848m), Lhotse (8501) and far as to Mt. Makalu in the east and superb view of Gokyo lakes. (Overnight at tea house on full board basis)

Day 10

Trek Gokyo to Thaknak (4700m) 4-5 hrs.

We trek down to Thaknak (4700m) for the overnight passing through the second Lake and walk on the glacier and will reaches at Thaknak after 4-5 hrs walk. Sometimes on the busy season it’s hard to get a room then they operated tented camp as well. (Overnight at tented camp on full board basis)

Day 11

Thaknak to Nirekha base camp (5340m) 5-6 hrs.

Today, we heads further on to our journey with steep way climbing passing through the some glacier ponds and walk with snow boulders and rocky mountain. There is two route of climbing Nirekha as we follow the Kanchung base camp which is easier then Lake base camp part. We’ll pitch our camp here at Kanchung base camp. (Overnight at tented camp on full board basis)

Day 12

Rest day at Nirekha Base camp for acclimatization.

Today, we have full day rest at base camp for well acclimatize. This day we can learn about techniques about climbing, Making knots and using other safety matter with our climbing guides and overnight at camp. It is required to fix the ropes depends on ice and snow way to high camp and if necessary Guide will fixed the ropes to high camp. (Overnight at tented camp on full board basis)

Day 13

Nirekha Base camp to high camp (5930m) 2-3 hrs.

After early breakfast and packed camping stuff, we’ll head on to the High camp from where we start our climb. From the Kanchung base camp head towards north and follow a trail up the steep slope. We traverse to the right across some rock slabs, reaching flat territory just below the glacier. The glacier is mounted on the left south border. Follow the glacier on an east trail until reaching the flat caldera just below the Cho La cool where we’ll have for the overnight. (Overnight at tented camp on full board basis)

Day 14

Summit Nirekha Peak (6159m) and back to Base Camp 9-10 hrs.

This day is our main adventure day, we start early in the morning to climb Nirekha peak but it all depends on the weather condition. It takes about 9-10 hours. At the summit you will catch panoramic views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, Tawache, Cholatse, Pumori, Changri and more. After a safe trip to the top we safely make our way down then same day back to Base Camp.

Day 15

Reserve day for unforeseen condition.

This day we reserve for the day for unforeseen condition as bad weather, climber sickness or other hidden condition. We can use this day for climb if the abnormal situation comes.

Day 16

Trek back Base Camp to Dzongla via Cho-La passes (5467m) 5-6 hrs.

As our continuing journey, we walk in the high passes and one of the tiff days to cross the Cho-La pass at 5467m height. The pass is not difficult but it is steep and involves a glacier traverse on the eastern side. After crossing the Cho-La pass and reaches at Dzongla (Overnight at tea house on full board basis)

Day 17

Trek back Dzongla (4850m) to Gorakshep (5160m) 5-6 hrs.

We continue trek along the moraine of the glacier, with views of Kalapatthar and Pumori, before reaching at Lobuche (4910m) for lunch. You’ll have good chances for the best view of Mt. Nuptse a front of you walking along the Gorakshep. The trail up to the Gorakshep is rocky and windy but it offers the good view of Pumori and there are beautiful views of the Everest Base camp and glacier with scenic Mountain View. We stop at the Gorakshep and enjoy the night at higher elevation but care with drinks and are sincere with altitude. (Overnight at tea house on full board basis)

Day 18

Early Hike to Kalapatthar (5555m) & Everest Base Camp (5316m) 5-6 hrs.

Early morning our journey continue steep climb to the top of Kalapathar than you will feel beaming as you achieve the moment that you been dreaming, since the beginning of the journey. Top of Kalapatthar is a small rocky peak on the southwest ridge of Mt. Pumori, the view from here is beyond imagination as the Everest looks amazing, the panoramic view from this spot is something to cherish, and you feel it’s worth the hard climb up to here and to feel at the top of the world, and can be seen to the south Khumbu glacier sweeps below you, and you can also see the Everest Base camp down below on the moraine of Khumbu glacier and lot of picturesque scenery. Re-track to Gorakshep and after the breakfast at Gorekshep we ready for our adventure to the targeted destination and we continues our trek towards the Everest Base Camp and to the Khumbu Ice-fall, the path from here can be misleading, follow the lead Sherpa, every year the trail changes due to the movements of the glacier, the walk is quite strenuous due to the high altitude and thin air, the walk passes through over rocky dunes and moraine and streams, till you reach the base camp. It takes 2-3 hrs to get to base camp and after a grand time here retrace the journey back to Gorekshep. (Overnight at tea house on full board basis)

Day 19

Trek back Gorakshep to Dingboche (4358m) 5-6 hrs.

After breakfast trek down to Dhugla then go straight up the hill from the bridge to reach an upper trail. Staying high above the valley floor, we pass the yak pasture at Dusa to a Chorten at the head of the Imja valley. Dingboche is the only place in Khumbu where barley is grown. (Overnight at tea house on full board basis)

Day 20

Trek back Dingboche to Tyangboche (3867m) 5-6 hrs.

The walk this day will be easy heading downhill to a lower elevation from Dingboche the walk is pleasant all the way to Tyangboche. After crossing the bridge our route descends following the stream towards Pangboche village, and further down to Tyangboche is one of the most beautiful place in the Himalaya the first thing that comes to your eye is the big Monastery or Gumba, then the large field with campsites and tea houses, lodges beneath the towering majestic beautiful peak Ama Dablam, Everest, Mt. Lhotse and Lhotse Shar towards north east and more peaks all around you. (Overnight at tea house on full board basis)

Day 21

Tengboche to Monjo (2950m) 6-7 hrs.

In the morning we may roam around Tengboche for photogenic views from here are considered to be the world’s most splendid one. Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse (8501m), Kwangde (6187m), Tawachee (6542m), Ama Dablan, Kantega and Thamserku provide an inspiring views of Himalayan giants than we continue the hillside blanketed by rhododendron and juniper trees. If it’s spring, the surrounding adored by pink and red rhododendron flowers is dazzling. We might have our lunch near Phunki Tenga. After crossing the prayer flag festooned bridge over the Dudh Koshi River, trail then follows the Dudh Koshi gorge descending rapidly through the pine forests. We keep a lookout for wild life such as mountain goats, snow leopards, colorful pheasants, etc., while we pass through the forest by the trail. After passing a Chorten, we reach the army camp at of Namche Bazaar. We want to take a long last look (and picture!) back to Lhotse, the tip of Everest and Tengboche from here. After Namche we walk down to the hill, cross some suspension bridges and reach Monjo. (Overnight at tea house on full board basis)

Day 22

Trek Manjo to Lukla: 4-5 hrs.

By today we start to get warmed up by the light breeze. Although we are traveling the same route down, we feel completely different views. We snap a mixture of open plains, rhododendron and pine forests, and in the distance snow covered peaks. We take time and walk leisurely today as this is the last day of our trek. We feel the Sherpa villages’ impressive faith in Buddhism and culture of prayer stones and prayers flag while we walk through the villages. On arrival in Lukla, we have plenty of time to relax, stretch those sore legs, and recall the experiences of the last couple of days. We experience the culmination of a fantastic trek on a happy note with everyone back safe and sound with smile on their faces! Upon arrival in Lukla, we stroll around while our leader will re-confirm our flight ticket. (Overnight at tea house on full board basis)

Day 23

Fly Lukla to Kathmandu - 30 min.

If the weather is good, early in the morning you fly back to Kathmandu after your long mountain journey. After 30 min you will be arrive at domestic airport at Kathmandu. We will send private Car/van/bus to pick up you to the hotel than you can rest and relax throughout the day in the hotel if you don’t have any necessities things to do. (Overnight at deluxe hotel on BB basis)

Day 24

Leisure day in Kathmandu.

Today is your leisure day, if interested you could buy some gifts from Nepal for your friends and relatives, you will visit some nearby shops or venture at Thamel for typical Nepalese goods which can be assisted by our guides or you can do it yourself too. If enthralled to explore some other areas of Kathmandu you could take some more time to do that today! Remember, we will be hosting a fantastic celebration “Farewell dinner” at traditional Nepalese restaurant with Mountain Guide Trek staffs for successful completion of the Nirekha Peak Climbing! (Overnight at deluxe hotel on BB basis)

Day 25

Farewell Friend (Final departure to your onward destination).

Today is last day in Nepal for this trip; you are saying good bye to the mountains as journey in Nepal comes to an end today! There is nothing to do but trade emails with travel companions and organize the photos. If you have more time you can do some shopping or sightseeing. Approximately 3 hours before the scheduled flight our representative who will eventually take you to the airport.

  • Foods in Kathmandu.
  • Your warm clothes for trekking/climbing.
  • Tips for your trip staff.
  • Personal high rescue medical insurance.
  • Helicopter evacuation if needed at the time of emergency.
  • Beverages such as coke, beer, mineral water, bar bills.
  • International Ticket
  • Airport pickup and drop off
  • English speaking  trained and experienced trekking guide, climbing guide and assistant guides
  • 3 star hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with breakfast
  • Domestic flights (Kathmandu – Lukla – Kathmandu)
  • Tea house accommodation during the trek
  • All meals (Breakfast, Lunch and dinner) during the trek and climb
  • Tented accommodation during the climb
  • Assistant Guide and Porter
  • National Park / Conservation Area entry permit such as tents and mattresses, cooking equipment, camp site charges, insurance and equipment for the staffs
  • Porter service (2 trekkers 1 porter)
  • Coordination of quick rescue service

 

CLIMBING GEARS
Rope, harness, ice-axe, carabiners, crampons, F8: Jumar, helmet, ice bar, ice screw, sleeping bag and climbing boots.

PERMIT

  • National Park entry permits.
  • Climbing permit.
  • All government and local taxes.

 

BEST TIME TO CLIMB
Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) are the best months for this trip. Although Island Peak can be climbed during winter, the cold temperature might not be suitable for everyone.

This trip will take you high into the Himalayas and into the heartland of the Everest region with a chance to visit the Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar. You will have the opportunity to get up close not only with the snow-clad mountains and rugged terrain of the Khumbu region of Nepal, but also with the lifestyle and culture of the Sherpa people, whose name rings synonymous with the Himalayas itself. In order for you to maximize your opportunity and get the best out of this trip, it is only pertinent that you become familiar with the timing of your trip.

Trip Highlights

  • Summit Nirekha Peak at 6,169 meters.
  • Explore Gokyo Valley – consisting of chains of five mountain lakes and hike up to Gokyo-Ri for breathtaking views of chains of mountains surrounding the Everest region.
  • Crossing of the challenging Cho La Pass at 5,420 meters.
  • Experience the authentic Sherpa culture and tradition in the midst of world’s highest mountains including
  • Everest, Cho Oyu, Pumori, Lhotse, Makalu, Thamserku, the majestic Ama Dablam and other surrounding high peaks in Khumbu region.

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